Thursday, September 2, 2010

A Festive Feeling - Singapore’s Mid-Autumn Festival

It was certainly a cunning plan. With 14th century China ruled by the Mongol empire, rebels plotted an uprising but had no way to spread details of their plan. One of them came up with the idea of hiding a message in mooncakes, small thin-crusted pastries filled with lotus bean paste, which were then distributed as part of the annual Mid-Autumn harvest festival. The uprising succeeded and the Mongols were banished from the land.

As with many such folktales, it is quite possible that the Mooncake uprising never really happened. But to this day, Chinese communities around the world remember the story as they enjoy the pastries in the run up to the Mid- Autumn Festival. Celebrated on the 15th day of the eighth moon, on October 3 this year, the celebration is even called the Moon Cake Festival in some countries.

Food for Thought
In Singapore, where the majority of the population is of Chinese ancestry, the festival is celebrated with gusto and helped to make my visit last year a memorable one. One of the high points was the free tour organized by the tourist board, which took participants through the lantern-strung streets of Chinatown (Singaporeans also call this the Lantern Festival).

As we walked through crowds buying festive treats in street markets, our informative and amiable guide Bernard filled us in on some of the tales associated with the festival. Most revolve around a woman called Chang’e who drinks an elixir of immortality and becomes the Goddess of the Moon.

The tour was, however, about much more than just the festival. Bernard talked about the changes in Chinatown over the decades and pointed out key features of the architecture, such as the distinctive “five foot way” verandahs that protect pedestrians from the weather.

We also got the chance to taste traditional delicacies. Some, such as pork jerky and egg tarts, are popular throughout the year but it was great to be taken to some of the places which locals consider truly special. The egg tarts, for example, were from a shop called Tong Heng that has been selling them for 90 years. Then, of course, we had the chance to try mooncakes, which I enjoyed along with a cup of green tea. In recent years, nontraditional fillings such as Häagen-Dazs ice cream have become very popular.

Marching On
The guided tours are just a small part of the festivities. One afternoon I stopped in a marquee to watch part of the classic story of the Journey to the West. Under ordinary circumstances, I might not watch an entire Chinese opera—the music could seem very dissonant to outsiders —but it was great to watch the very acrobatic display of martial arts for half an hour. t was certainly a cunning plan. With 14th century China ruled by the Mongol empire, rebels plotted an uprising but had no way to spread details of their plan. One of them came up with the idea of hiding a message in mooncakes, small thin-crusted pastries filled with lotus bean paste, which were then distributed as part of the annual Mid-Autumn harvest festival. The uprising succeeded and the Mongols were banished from the land. As with many such folktales, it is quite possible that the mooncake uprising never really happened. But to this day, Chinese communities around the world remember the story as they enjoy the pastries in the run up to the Mid autumn festival. Celebrated on the 15th day of the eighth moon, on October 3 this year, the celebration is even called the Moon Cake Festival in some countries.

The highlight, though, was the lantern parade on the festival night itself. Arriving at Outram Park metro station and not knowing what to expect, I discovered that the event was very welcoming to tourists. For just S$3—which won’t usually buy you very much in Singapore—I received a bag containing a paper lantern kit, candle, mooncake and a few other bits and pieces. The staff at the stand even helped me to put the lantern together after I had fumbled with it for 10 minutes.

At the sound of an air horn, the drummers at the front of the procession began to play and dragon dancing started around them. I followed the crowd along roads closed to traffic and illuminated with images of Chang’e, drawn along by the beat of the drums and entertained by fire-breathers and other performers.

The parade ended at the Clarke Quay, a popular stretch of bars and restaurants. As I waited for fireworks display which would end the event, I reflected that this festival famous for helping to kick out foreign invaders from China now represents an excellent reason to visit Singapore.

Digging Deeper
The festival is a perfect time to explore the history of the city’s Chinese community. The Chinatown Heritage Centre is a great place to start, with lots of informative displays and a recreation of an old shop house showing just how cramped and difficult the conditions were for many Chinese immigrants.

Source : http://www.southeastasia.org/index.php/articles/detail/a-festive-feeling-singapores-mid-autumn-festival/

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